The goal of any research is to try and make people’s lives a bit easier, so I gave it a go. 5 years after I defended my thesis, and also managed to publish a few scientific articles here and here. I could say that this dream has come true, and big part of this is thanks to Euroholds. This Spanish company, really trusted my proposal 6 years ago, betting on me, in my crazy ideas and numbers, in materializing all that data in something useful for the community, in making realistic all those tests that a lunatic scientist had been making in a little garage (#psicolab 👇).
I will be honest though, I have had tough times, up and downs, moments when I though that my research was going completely the wrong way, that I was totally wrong, that I was not going to make it, or even that someone was going to do achieve my dream before myself.
But luckily this time, it was the reality itself that has always driven me back towards my dream and not to the other way. Everything I had observed in my studies and researches in the past, all the parameters (physical adaptations) that I was constantly tracking through training periods on myself and also on my pupils were the compass, my satnav. And eventually, all this numbers were also becoming real in results, hard redpoints, onsigths, flashes, incredible boulder problems. So all this has really been light that has kept the fire on, despite those hundreds of obstacles on the road, now I can say we have made it.
All what I can say is……THANK YOU GUYS for making this happen, thanks to everyone who has been there, all those that have contributed to my studies, those that have given me unconditional support (family and friends, all those sharing my researches and publications on the social media…) to everyone, but specially, to you guys that has trusted me as a coach and my way of coaching (so different and sometimes changeable 🙏). If there is a big truth in all this is that we have never stopped learning.
I still see that this new way of training will still take a little longer to settle in the community, but this is something that will sink down gradually and people will give up on training without any type of control or monitoring any data. I really hope that the “no pain-no gain” or just train as any strong climber trains will be disappearing, and people will start gaining a proper criteria on their training sessions. Now the R-evolution has started and day after day we will be getting closer of being better and better. The science applied to climbing as a sport is not just a fashion (unfortunately, I was told this not so long ago by some famous personality of the climbing world, that science applied to climbing is a fashion thing that will pass away), it is a reality indeed, and clearly has come to stay and to help us understanding everything much better and clearer.
So thanks everyone and welcome.
What is the R-Evolution Training Board?
This finger board it is not just a wooden hang board full stop….. or probably yes, but with many different things that really make this board so innovative:
First thing to know about the R-Evolution Training Board is that has been created to work along with a unique App. The R-Evolution Training App has been designed to make your time more efficient. Both together work in a holistic integrative manner, which allows the App to know exactly what is happening on the board. This is a simple and effective ON/OFF system that works together with the phone movement sensor, making your life easier in the sense that you will not need to touch the phone regularly through your training sessions (in any case it also has a manual mode, so you can use edit any content as you like). We are really happy with this innovative feature because it adds quality and precision as well as to your training sessions as to your personal assessments that are made with the App (self-test). Thanks to this new feature the App will as well assess your precision when using intermittent protocols of dead hangs, an incredibly important and useful element in order to make those assessments valid and reliable.
Before getting deeper into all the features of the App, I will tell you a bit more about this wooden board itself. The R-Evolution Training Board comes with a unique and precise way to adjust the edge depth, this mechanism makes the depth bigger or smaller just like a HI-FI volume controller. We will be able to adjust it with millimetric precision thanks to an indicator that is right under the hang board.
When you look at the R-Evolution Training Board is a littleshockingthat is built asymmetrically, and there is a physiological and healthy postural reason, and is that dead-hangs must be made with hands at shoulder width (this will save you of longer term shoulder issues, if you train with hang board a lot). As you will see it does have holds for 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 fingers, that you can adjust from 35 mm up to 5 mm, and also two different slopers inclination at the top. And last but not least, its texture is skin friendly as the board is made of beech wood, and its edges have been gently softened, so you will not suffer even if you need to use super small edges when doing your dead hanging sessions (link to product website).
What is the R-Evolution Training App?
The App of the R-Evolution Training Board is the heart of this innovative training tool, and honestly we have never seen something like it in the market so far, what I makes in our opinion by far the best value hang board. The initial concept of this App has changed twice for different reasons, this has meant a complete reset and to have to start from scratch twice. We have read this issue as a great opportunity to make things better, and to improve the previous versions. The final result is definitely worthwhile, but we would like you to test it properly and tell us what do you think. Below I will make a brief intro of what you could be doing with this App.
The R-Evolution Training App integrates a testing protocol (self-test), by undertaking these assessments you will obtain the data of your physiological profile. Thanks to these results, that you will be able to perform whenever you will need (find more information here about how to integrate the assessments with your training season) everyone would understand which characteristics of your profile you are improving with your training sessions, and therefore you will be able to prove if you are achieving your goals or not. Once you will have finished these assessments, the App will give you a result (Average Level of Indicators, ALI) that will tell you if you are actually performing according to your physical ability. With these results you will be able to guess how much dead-hanging you need within your training season (more information about the ALI and how you can use it).
This App is able to produce a training program that you could follow (if you would like, of course), using a dead hang protocol or not (more info here). Briefly: the training programs will be based on the 3 main capacities that you should essentially train (1 each training cycle) based on your physiological profile and your goals.
Information regarding the scientific background of the App, could be found below as well as in the App. Amongst many other features and information you will find really useful contents like 5 different integrated preset workout programs; practical information to know how to adjust the preset workout programs, and how to organize them in order to program your peak shape; how to fit in your dead-hang sessions with other workout contents; how to use you physiological profile to train better; and also relevant information on how to undertake the self-tests, warm-ups, or how to adapt any other preset workout routines 👇👇:
- Maximum finger strength (protocol, warm up, video explanation)
- Contact strength (protocol, warm up, video explanation)
- Aerobic/anaerobic local endurance (protocol, warm up, video explanation)
- Anaerobic local endurance (protocol, warm up, video explanation)
- Aerobic endurance (protocol, warm up, video explanation)
If you also need to adapt those preset workout routines you can do it using the workout edition option on the App (Editor) , or even modify any of the 500 preset workout routines.
Below see an interactive short 60s video showing you how you can navigate through the App and also its different parts and options.
This product has been produced for everyone that could start training dead hangs. If you need to find out if you can use or not this product, click here. Therefore, this is not just a tool produced for coaches to train their pupils, this is a tool for everyone that wants to hit right on their weakness, and to train more effectively.
DO NOT WORRY if you do not have a massive vast knowledge about training for climbers, because we have created this site and also a Blog on the EUROHOLDS website to explain you how to use this incredible tool to boost your climbing performance.
We are also organizing a WEBINAR series for everyone interested, no matter if you are a coach that would like to know specifically what is best for your pupils, or a climber interested in taking your climbing to the next level, we will offer on-line courses that will help everyone on how to use the data of your physiological profile, so you can add the right content to your training sessions soon here.