FAQ-1: Does this App plan your training sessions?
The R-Evolution Training App does not have any function that plans or organizes your training sessions (sooner than later I will offer you enough tools and resources to learn how to develop something similar to what you see in the mini video of this post (here)). More info about courses, click here.
The Training Editor incorporated in the App may be used to create dead hang training sessions (mainly), or sessions of any other type (as it is explained on the following FAQ), so the App does not include a proper “Timer”.
What you will find in this app is general knowledge on how to adapt your needs/requirements to any of the 500 pre-configured training sessions that are available on the App, so you get to know what are they based on, and how to combine them with other contents that do not need to be dead hangs, how to plan your peak of performance, etc… (all these matters are explained on the texts 6, 7 and 8 on the section “Science and more” (here).
FAQ-2: Can I use the App to do strength and conditioning trainings or endurance sessions on the climbing wall?
The R-Evolution Training App includes a Training Editor whose interface has been specifically designed for dead hang work.
However, the way it operates is similar like any other interval training app when used in MANUAL mode, so you can also use it as your interval training app.
For example, if you want to set up a strength and conditioning programme with different exercises, all you have to do is to relate each grip type to the exercise you would really like to do.
Therefore, if your training circuit involves 5 different exercises (as in the example below), you must select 5 different grip types and you are set to go.
I do suggest you to use the section “Description” (in the Editor) to write the names of the exercises, so you do not forget them.
This will also allow you to check them during the training itself by clicking on their name. In addition, if you use some weight in these exercises, you can introduce this value in the corresponding section of each grip type, so you will have a record of previous sessions for the following ones.
In case you want to do a training session on the climbing wall, you can also set an specific number of sets and repetitions, or even an unspecific number (see example below) or also to train to a total amount of time.
In any case, you will only need to select a grip type in the Editor, as the exercise to be done in this case will always be the same: climbing. More info about everything the editor of the R-Evolution Training App can offers you: here.
FAQ-5: Do the training sessions that I do remain recorded on the R-Evolution Training App?
This App does not work timing your training cycles, neither registering how many times you have repeated each of the workouts, not even those that the App itself has in the menu (pre-configured) or those that you can create with the Editor (more about pre-configured training sessions and the Editor here).
What the R-Evolution Training App does is to record the grip size and the weight used in any training session (added or assisted weight), being able to differentiate the exact weight you use for each hand (something needed for unilateral work) (see table BELOW).
FAQ-7: May I use the R-Evolution Training App with another hang board?
OF COURSE! Thanks to its “MANUAL mode”, you can use it with any other board as well, even to make up your own non-dead hang sessions of training for climbing (more about this matter in FAQ2 -above-).
However, depending on the table you‘ll be using is quite likely that you will end up having at least 1 of these 2 handicaps:
1. If your hang board does not have the option of adjusting the grip size as the R-Evolution Training Board, you could be more limited when doing the self-testing process or the training sessions of the App, because they also used adapted grip sizes.
2. Since you won’t be able to use AUTOMATIC mode without the R-Evolution Training Board, you will not know the accuracy of your intermittent hanging exercises. This affects the reliability of theses exercises, but most importantly the validity of your self-test.
Why?. Very easy, you’ll see.
Whenever you are climbing, each time that you release a your hand of a handhold in order to get the next hold “the recovery window” of your finger flexors is opened, so this is the time when they will get Oxygen (O2) through. The amount of oxygen restored in the muscle depends on its own oxidative capacity, and the resting time. Consequently, as much O2 flows into the muscle, more phosphocreatine (PCr) is resynthesized into it, as simple as that (and this PCr does not relate to a COVID test, but it is a substrate that generates “clean energy”, and is therefore very important for the manifestation of local specific endurance -LSE).
Understanding the huge differences that there can be in just 1 second of recovery, and the magnitude of O2 that can be captured in these resting phases (do you remember the O2HTR? – if you don’t, click here), imagine what it does mean to NOT KNOW if you are doing, systematically (that is, at each of the recovery stages during these protocol for the assessment of the LSE) resting times of half or even a full second over or under the established time.
Indeed! This is called “blind measuring” and you must know that what is not measured WELL, it cannot be improved.
Now it is up to you to use these advances or to throw them into the bin.
FAQ-8: Does the R-Evolution Training Board has force sensors?
Although the use of the force sensors in the field of climbing is increasingly common due to its functionality and also they are becoming more accessible nowadays, this table does not incorporate a force sensor.
The main reason is about being a “KISS” fan. This is the principle of a designer (acronym of “Keep It Simple Stupid) which tells us that most of the systems do work way better if they remain simple, instead of becoming more complex, and this relates perfectly in this case.
To add a force sensor to a hang board makes it less accessible mate, and although it adds some functionalities (such as measuring the “Rate Force Development” (RFD) and that is basically how quick you are capable to apply force when you grab a hold) does not necessarily improves the whole product.
In fact, this variable (RFD) can be calculated (in part) from the assessment of finger strength that is done on the self-test, but where we could really get an answer of sensor “yes or no”, it was when we discovered that adding the sensor did not guarantee a better evaluation of the specific climbing endurance (SCE).
And you would ask… why?, because of two main points :
1. With the R-Evolution Training Board can be approached your Occlusion Threshold (OT), a parameter that seems fundamental in order to measure the specific climbing endurance (SCE) in a valid way (as suggested by Staszkiewicz et al., 2002), and here there is another fact, his assessment has not yet been validated (in climbers) using force sensors (more on the OT here).
2. Even knowing the OT, and valuing the SCE using a protocol with a force sensors (and not by dead hang assessment as it must be done on the self-test) might have a doubtful validity and reliability, because when applying voluntary force on a hold:
a. There is a delay reaching the target force that could be important for its positive impact on O2HTR (more info about this parameter here) by overestimating the SCE.
b. It is very difficult to maintain an constant intensity that could affect blood flow and overestimate the SCE for the same reason (Balas et. Al, 2015).
Summing up, so far we’ll keep it “simple”, we’ll remain fans of the KISS’s approach though.
FAQ-9: I do not get all that thing of the precision on intermittent hangs …, how does this work exactly?
As I mentioned before on other FAQ (and more specifically on the nº 7 and 8 – see above-), knowing the accuracy with which you make the intermittent hangs is a crucial element for the validity and reliability on the protocols that assess specific endurance (to learn more about what we mentioned before, check out the post about O2HTR –here-).
If you’d like that the R-Evolution Training App provides you with the right accuracy you have to:
CORRECTLY INSTALL the R-Evolution Training Board, without this, the App will not “work” well because it works with the movement of your mobile phone. Basically, the App detects the variation of position that the mobile experiments when you dead hang or detach yourself from the board, both actions (hanging on or off) are integrated as a simple movement. If the table does not make a clean move (up or down) the accuracy of the information will be altered (to avoid this problem, follow the instructions of “HOW TO INSTALL VIDEO” here. Have the AUTO mode enabled in the App (learn more about the App’s operating models in Text 29 of the “APP USAGE GUIDE”)
PPP (practice, practice and practice) doing intermittent dead hangs on the R-Evolution Training Board till you get so familiar with the required “technique” is a must, although I have to say that there is no mystery (just get on dead hang training, start with a single hang and gradually add weight to see how does it work, for example). To help you with this, check out the VIDEO OF INTERMITENTS FINGER HANGS –here-)
All about the App itself can be checked here.
More info about the precision of the App when you finish the intermittent dead hang session, click here.
FAQ-11: Is the R-Evolution only for “pro-climbers”?
To train based on your physiological profile is something that anyone that is interested in optimising their training sessions should be doing (no matter your climbing level), if you fulfil the basic requirements to do the initial self-test and to train dead hangs (requirements here).
Training based on your physiological profile it does not mean to do dead hang training sessions (more info about this here).
Training based on your physiological profile does really mean that you are aware which capacities you’ve developed further and which ones are weaker.
This is the INFORMATION that will allow you to evaluate the appropriateness of the approach that you have followed, in other words, you will be able to assess in an OBJECTIVE manner how adequate has been that training program that you have been following (something much more useful and precise than valuing your improvements based on your performance in climbing).
This is the main functionality of the self-test (the epicentre of the R-Evolution Training App) so you can compare the improvements obtained between different self-tests (just until the App has this feature too), and remember that you can download the form to make these comparisons meanwhile, TOTALLY FREE (just check-out this 5’ video tutorial on how to use it), click here (text in spanish) .
As you already know, the App offers you a training DINAMIC after each of the self-tests (no matter if it is the INITIAL or the FOLLOW-UP test).
These dynamics could be translated basically in 2 or 3 CAPACITIES that you should emphasize on your training during the following 3 consecutive training cycles, giving priority to each of those per each of the cycles (Emphasizing does not mean “to train exclusively”).
Since all the climbing physical-specific capacities can be trained applying dead hang training, the App will select a training programme for each capacity suggested on the dynamic (according to your profile, objectives and level obtained on the indicators).
In summary, the R-Evolution Training Board/App will help you to train in a much better way, whether or not you are using dead hangs, or whether or not you are a professional climber.
Learn more about the App here.
Author: Pedro Bergua