Doing functional performance tests is a common practice in sports training. The data obtained by this means, allows a better guidance for all the training process and to predict its potential benefits on the performance (1). Therefore, it’s normal to schedule several tests in a year, although their frequency will fundamentally depend on the degree of interference they may imply on the training (3). Well-designed tests are handy, simple and quickly done, and usually don’t involve major alterations of the normal training dynamics, so they can be integrated into a workout session as an additional content.

Self-tests meet the requirements of simplicity and accessibility as they are based on a very common exercise in climbing training: finger hangs. Therefore, they can be performed very easily, and in general, also very quickly. The initial self-test which is the longer and first one to be done, takes up to 4 days which may cause a greater interference in the training. Here are some recommendations to make easier combining each type of self-test with the workouts:

Act = Activity (workout or climbing); – = rest.

Act = Activity (workout or climbing); – = rest.

REFERENCES

(1) Chicharro JL, Laín SA. Transición aeróbica-anaeróbica: concepto, metodología de determinación y aplicaciones. : Master Line; 2004.

(2) Gibala M, MacDougall J, Sale D. The effects of tapering on strength performance in trained athletes. International Journal of Sports Medicine 1994;15(08):492-497.

(3) Bartram JC, Thewlis D, Martin DT, Norton KI. Predicting Critical Power in Elite Cyclists: Questioning the Validity of the 3-Minute All-Out Test. Int J Sport Physiol. 2017;12(6):783-7.

LINKS

More about parallel activities during self-test days

More about the general warm-up for self-testing

More about the specific warm-up for self-testing

More about the training dynamics proposed by the App

More on how to combine the finger hang workouts with rock climbing or additional training