– Equipment: in addition to the App, you will need:

– Distribution: regardless of the type of self-test, its sessions should be planned, whenever possible, in consecutive days or at least very close in time. Only three tests are done per day (four in the case of a follow-up self-test done in one day) to avoid any alteration of the results as a consequence of the fatigue. The duration of a session will hardly get above 60´, warm up included.

– Grip positions: every test is performed by means of two hands dead hangs using all the fingers, except the thumb, on an edge. The grip positions that should be employed are the half crimp or the open crimp. Crimp or full crimp positions should be avoided as they imply an increased risk of injury at the high intensities at which some of these tests are set.

– Parallel activities: after a self-test session (except for the last one), we suggest you to avoid doing more activities involving the fingers, which includes fingerboard exercises, campusing and climbing, as this may cause additional fatigue that could alter the results of the next day. You can do, if you wish, other kinds of exercises like joint mobility and stability work, or stretching.


How to make self-testing compatible with training

Scientific foundations behind self-testing